Canadian Wino(s)

Tag: barolo

August 29 – Rhone Valley

by RossMorrison on Sep.01, 2009, under LCBO Reviews

The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé.  Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.

Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier.  The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.  The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France.  In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label.  Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring.  Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.

Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf

2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95    Great value

Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone.  Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone.  With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well.  Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years.  At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195

Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras

2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so.  Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level.  Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker.  Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time.  If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013

Tavel – Rosé

2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays.  Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé.  This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309

Northern Rhone – Syrah

2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95     Cellar Pick

Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring.  Here is one from the great 2005 vintage.  Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours).  This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054

2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage.  You get some of the character at often a much better price.  This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712

California – Zin

2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS)    #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30.  -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151

France –Bordeaux

2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend

This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol).  This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years.  Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM

‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666

Italy – Piedmont

2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young.  It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit.  RM

‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176

Piedmont – Barolo Bargain

2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95        Exceptional value

Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price.  The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004).  Decant it and let it open up.  This wine should be full flavoured and smooth.  This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age.  RM

‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527

Cheers,   Ross

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May 2 – Tuscany & California

by RossMorrison on May.14, 2009, under LCBO Reviews, Wine Reviews

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross

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