Canadian Wino(s)

Tempranillo:     Tempranillo is the top grape of Spain, and is especially known in wines of Rioja.  It comes on its own or blended with others, e.g. Garnacha (Grenache) and others.  Medium to full bodied, and smooth, it can be consumed young, but is often oak aged.  It is common for Spanish wines to be barrel and bottle aged prior to release.  The various designations: Joven, Roble, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva each have minimum barrel and bottle aging times (Joven the least; Gran Reserva the most)*.  Ageing potential varies accordingly.  Red and dark berries, plum, tobacco, leather and vanilla (from the oak) are some of the flavors found in Tempranillo based wines.  Rioja is known for good quality and value, starting from about $15 (Crianza) for wines that are ready to drink.  Ribera del Duero is up and coming, and can offer wines with more concentration and character than typical Rioja.  Ribera del Duero has been more consistent over the last few vintages.  2001 was a good vintage for both that is now well aged.

Burgundy 2006, 2007:     The 2005 Burgundy vintage is a tough act to follow.  A few days ago I attended a tasting of 2006 and 2007 Burgundies.  Overall, the reds seemed thin, but this comes after a year of drinking an assortment of some of the earlier drinking 2005’s that were all great, showing the concentration that 2005 is noted for.  Cotes de Nuits showed better for 2006 and 2007.  Nuits Saint Georges was good.  A 2007 Fixin was a notable surprise that offered good value.  The Grand Crus were good, just not good enough to command the $200 and up price tags.  My recommendation for red Burgundy is to pick up whatever of the 2005s is still around.  Some are at reduced price (picked up some 05 Gevrey Chambertin for $40 per bottle a few days ago!).

The whites (chardonnay) were better for 2006/07 with Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne standing out.  The Meursaults were good as well. There could be some good wines for drinking or adding to your collection in the whites.

There was one Beaujolais (a Fleurie) which was light but tasty with some character and a good value at $22.  From the Beaujolais Villages I have tasted, 2006/07 may be good for some of the Cru Beaujolais, especially Moulin a Vent.

Rioja

2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva DOC, $39.95

Drink now – 2011
90 WS – Thomas Matthews
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
2001 was a good year for Rioja, and with 26 months in barrel and a few years in bottle, this one is ready to drink.  Enjoy now or keep it a year or two.
‘dried cherry, tobacco and anise…hot heavy…floral spicy finish’ – WS 114504

2001 Ontanon Reserva DOC, $24.95

Drink now -2011
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

2004 Lealtanza Crianza DOC, $19.95

Drink now -2013
Grapes: 95 %Tempranillo, 5% Graciano
Here’s a 2001 Reserva (not quite as long in the barrel as Gran Reserva).
‘…24 months in French and American oak…strawberry, anise, almond, plum…smooth tannins, long finish’ – Vintages.  725895

Ribera del Duero

Marques de Velilia Crianza 2003 DO, $24.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Tempranillo
2003 is a good year for Ribera del Duero.  This Crianza should be great for dinking now.
‘…strawberry, menthol, milk chocolate, cherry, leather, anise’ Vintages 655399

Burgundy – Red

2005 Domaine Michel Caillot Les Avaux Beaune 1er Cru AC, $39.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine is from a small organic producer.  The lesser known label may account for the rather reasonable $40 for a premier cru Beaune.
‘…ruby red…aromas of cherries, strawberries, spicy beets, underbrush, earthiness…dry with silky refined tannins’ –Vintages 116111

2005 Nicolas Potel Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis AC, $49.95     Cellar Pick

Drink 2013 – 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88-91 Burghound (Allan Meadows)
Morey-Saint-Denis is a Cotes de Nuits village.  While not a premier cru, this wine is from a good village in the Cotes de Nuits, a great year, and gets a very good rating from Burghound.
‘…potent nose of reduction, spice, hint of floral aromas…good vibrancy despite funk on the nose…real freshness to punchy and persistent finish’ Burghound 1104033

Ontario – Merlot

Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002 VQA, Erie North Shore $19.95      Local Value

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Merlot
4/5 stars – Tony Aspler
Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards.  2002 was a good year for Ontario Reds.  Here is a chance to try a local Merlot with a bit of age on it.
‘Nose: cedar, vanilla, black fruits.  Taste: medium bodied, firmly structured…cherry, plum fruit…’ -Tony Aspler 500447

Beaujolais Villages

2007 Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais Villages AC, $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Beaujolais Villages is wine ‘from the villages around Beaujolais.  These are light to medium bodied, easy drinking but tasty wines.
‘…brightly fruity wine…fresh strawberry and cassis aromas and flavours…dry, medium bodied…’ – Vintages 112524

S. Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2006 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $37.95

Drink now 2016
Grapes: Blend
91 WS (James Molesworth)
2006 is another good vintage for the Southern Rhone.  Cuvee du Vatican delivers good value for under $40.  I recently tasted the 2005 Cuvee du Vatican and found it very enjoyable, on the lighter side of the Chateauneuf spectrum, nicely balanced and smooth with dark flavour notes, a wine to enjoy in the first 5-10 years.
‘…dark…currant paste, fig sauce, mocha, licorice and fruitcake…taut but fresh tannins… WS 719120

Bordeaux

2004 Chateau Haut Sarpe AC, St. Emilion, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Merlot based blend
2004 is a good Bordeaux vintage (Left and Right).  St. Émilion is one of the big two appellations of the Merlot dominated right bank.
‘…vanilla, toast, red berries.  Dry, medium bodied…plum, cherry, toast and soft mineral notes’ Vintages 101634

2004 Clos de Grand Puceau AS St. Emilion, $27.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is another 2004 St. Émilion, at a bit more economical price point.
‘…bright ruby wine…ripe plums and red berry fruit…lively acidity…medium bodied, – Vintages.  112680

Cheers,   Ross

Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine.  I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time.  Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others.  For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio.  Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.

Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark.  My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like.  One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative.  The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal.  It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.

This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate.  So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…

Sparkling

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)

Bestheim Brut Rosé  Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method.  The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740

California – Merlot

2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery.  For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399

Australia – Grenache

2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja.  It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth.  Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new).  Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own.  Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry.  Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040

Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)

Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95

Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers.  Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar).  I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab.  Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to.  Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through.  This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423

Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River

2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia.  I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level.  Big fruit and smooth.  This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553

Beaujolais – Morgon

2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay.  I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais.  It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais.  This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village.  It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers.  Best at 3-4 years. 112557

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid.  That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279

Veneto – 11 year old Amarone

1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years.  This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years.  If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one.  Match with big full flavored Italian dishes.  My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino.  Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634

B.C.  St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend

2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95

Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien).  It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so).  I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004).  So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating.  626325

France – Bordeaux

2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95

Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage).  Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol.  The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost.  These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551

2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland.  This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same.  Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.)  Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298

Italy –Veneto

2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend.  The addition of some Amarone adds complexity.  No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897

Italy –Piedmont

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont.  Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators.  This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843

Cheers,   Ross