Canadian Wino(s)

There is a lot to choose from with Chile.  If you are looking for something unique to Chile, try Carmenère, one of the original six reds of Bordeaux.  Chile is now the home of Carmenère, which is a good medium bodied, early drinking wine with less tannin than it’s cousin Cabernet Sauvignon (part of the Cab family) and typically has red and blue berry and spice notes.

Chile has long been known for good Cabernet Sauvignon bargains.  This week, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of a Chilean Pinot Noir (2005 Cono Sur) at dinner with friends.

Historically Chile has been regarded as a lower end producer, but they do have their stars.  Errazuriz makes some world class wines that stand up to the best of Bordeaux and Tuscany in blind tastings.  French houses like Marnier-Lapostolle have teamed up with the locals as the French seem to be doing around the new world.

Chile’s wine regions consist of a number of valleys that run north –south amongst the mountains.  There is a vast number of producers, spread across the numerous valleys.  It makes finding the wines that stand out from the crowd challenging.  The wineries showcased here make a good introduction to the value end of Chilean wine.  For a more in depth look at low to mid level Chilean wine, watch for the Chilean tasting held each year at the Distillery in Toronto.  If you find a Chilean wine you like, make note of the Valley and producer.

Chile Carmenère

2007 Montes Alpha Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, $19.95
Drink now -2012
Grapes: Carmenère
89 James Molesworth (WS)
91 Jay Miller (RP)
Montes is a reliable producer.  Their Carmenère is wine of the month – usually a safe bet.   This one gets a good review from the Spectator and Parker.  The last Montes wine I tasted was their $20 Cab, which was a very good wine for the money.  RM

‘…saturated purple in colour…spice, lavender, incense, smoke and blueberry.  Layered, plush and concentrated…excellent depth and grip…’ JM (RP) 143230

Chile Pinot Noir

2007 Montes Alpha Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, $19.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir
88 James Molesworth (WS)
90 Jay Miller (RP)
This Pinot looks like it has some classic Pinot qualities – smooth, with cherry flavours.  If you like a Burgundian styled pinot, try this one.    RM

‘…lovely satiny texture, raspberry and black cherry flavours…’ JM (RP)    143214

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, $16.95
Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
This should be a good example of a value Cab from Chile.  It could age a year or two, but there will be more available next year, so give it a little decant time and enjoy now.  RM

‘…aromas of plum, lilac, graphite, and cassis…dry…crisp acidity…developing tannins…’ Vintages 398800

Chile – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, $13.95 375ml
Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Admittedly, dessert or sweet wines don’t come to mind when I think of Chile.  Errazuriz is however, one of the great innovators of the Chilean wine industry.  Sweet wines are made around the world and some real gems come from unexpected places.  Late Harvest is not as sweet as Icewine or Sauternes but does get some of the intensified fruit flavours from the concentrating effect of dehydrating on the vine after regular harvest.  RM

‘…yellow-gold colour…gently sweet…passion fruit, quava, red grapefruit and kiwi…medium bodied, fresh and fruity…enjoy as an after dinner sipper (Chilled) or pair with fruit custard…’ Vintages 427054

Italy – Veneto – Appassimento Valpolicella

2007 Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Appassimentto Valpolicella Classico Superior, DOC
Drink now – 2014                                            $16.95
Grapes: 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oselata, Negrara & Dindarella
Appassimentto is the method of drying grapes on special mats after harvest to dry grapes and concentrate the juice when making Amarone.  To make Amarone, the grapes are generally dried for about 3 months.  This Valpolicella gets about a month of drying prior to pressing.  The result should be something akin to a Ripasso but from another method; a Valpolicella with more depth of flavour and fuller bodied.  It is not surprising that this innovative approach would come from a popular Amarone producer such as Tedeschi.  Try this if you like Ripasso.  RM 984997

Italy – Tuscany – Chianti

2006 Cennatoio Chianti Classico DOCG, $24.95
Drink Now – 2016
Grapes: Sangiovese
90 James Suckling (WS)

2006 is an exceptional year for Italy.  This 2006 Chianti Classico should be starting to drink nicely but should drink nicely up to about 10 years.  RM

‘Dried flowers, with blackberry and dried cherry…full body…chewy tannins and long rich finish….’– JS (WS) 121210

France – Beaujolais

2007 Fontcraine Morgon, AC $17.95
Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better villages of Beaujolais.  Wines of this type drink young and are probably best at 3, maybe 4 years.  Expect a light to medium bodied and smooth wine with red fruit and earthy character.  Good with chicken dishes or salmon steaks.  RM

‘Aromas of beetroot and red field berries…meaty notes…dry and medium bodied…enjoy with hearty stew chock full of root vegetables’– Vintages 158923

California – Pinot Noir

2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $29.95
Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
This wine benefits from its proximity to the coast and the resulting cooling effect.  Cooling ocean breezes (or fog) helps many a fine Pinot develop on the West Coast.  RM

‘…elegant red fruit and earth notes and a long finish.  A fine match for roast beef or salmon steaks….’– Vintages 719435

Ontario – Chardonnay

2007 Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara, $24.95
Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
5/5 Vic Harradine (www.winecurrent.com)
Peninsula Ridge produces consistently good Chardonnay, a grape that does well in Niagara.  2007 was an exceptional vintage for the region.

‘Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose…white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit…’ VH (Winecurrent) 945659

Cheers,   Ross

True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.

Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)

D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer.  Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends.  The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity.  The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison.  The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours.  It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years.  The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre           EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)

The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as.  The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source.  GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah.  Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends.  Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM

‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips

I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked.  RM

‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com   147520

France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone

2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon

The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends.  This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump.  Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer.  Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather.  RM

‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716

Mexico –Petite Sirah

2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95

Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean

Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz.  Great value for the price.  RM

‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke.  Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com  983742

France – Burgundy

2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village).  It is the entry level wine for Burgundy.  2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003.  Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine).  I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value.  Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money.  RM

‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries.  Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank).  It is a difficult variety to show well on its own.  Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara.  This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery.  The College Winery makes some very good wines.  The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s.  Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit).  The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price.  2007 is a great vintage for Niagara.  Looking for something different in a red?  Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well.  RM

‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671

California – Pinot Noir

2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir.  This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes.  RM

‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth.  A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620

Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco        Cellar Pick

2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95

Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)

Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame.  It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins.  While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely.  RM

‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)

Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone.  The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’.  Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes.    RM

‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946

Aussie – Shiraz

2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95

Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)

This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available.  The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages.  Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results.    RM

‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273

Cheers,   Ross

Coming into the Christmas party season soon, Vintages has put together some good wines under $20.  Some are Vintages ‘Essentials’ which means that they are regularly available.  Others are regular Vintages items, meaning that they are available while supplies last.

Chile – Cabernet

2007 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $19.95

Drink now -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
91 – Jay Miller (RP)
89 – James Molesworth (WS)
I tasted this one earlier in the year and was quite impressed.  It had excellent depth, character, and was very smooth – well balanced.  It could go a few more years but is great for drinking now. RM

‘…opaque purple…toasty oak, tobacco, espresso, and blackcurrant…good richness, excellent depth, and firm structure…’– JM (erobertparker.com) 322586

Aussie Shiraz

2008 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz, Barossa South Australia $15.00

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Shiraz

Elderton is one of the better producers in Barossa and they make some very good super premium wines.  This entry level Elderton should be fruity and easy drinking.  RM

‘…crushed berries, black plum, vanilla, chocolate, and earthy notes…great with roasted lamb, grilled steaks…’– Vintages 660480

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Cabernet Franc $19.95

VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula
Drink now -2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
4/5 Vic Harradine (winecurrent.com)

Normally I prefer Cab Franc as a support wine in a Bordeaux style blend.  Many Right bank blends benefit from a prominent us of this grape.  One its own it is difficult to find one that really stands out.  I’ve tasted Coyote’s Run’s Pinot Noirs and they were terrific, especially the Black Paw which is named after the colour of the clay in the vineyard.  2007 was very good for Ontario so this could be one of the exceptions when Cab Franc is great on its own.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it is as good as expected.  RM

‘…14 months in oak…density and charm…ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes…medium to full bodied…drink 2011-2014.’– VH  050450

Ontario Pinot Noir

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2007 $40.00

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Pinot Noir

The Pinots of Clos Jordanne are ‘terroir driven’ meaning that they are made from specific vineyards and reflect the soil, and aspect etc. of the vineyard.  Although pricey, they are a cut above other Niagara Pinots, delivering character similar to lighter Burgundies.  Their winemaker was winemaker of the year at the recent Ontario Wine Awards.   There is a selection of wines from Clos Jordanne in some stores now.  RM

‘…deeply coloured Claystone Terrace Pinot is typically the most muscular in style…’– Vintages 033951

Australia – Viognier

2008 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Viognier
93 Tyson Stelzer (wine100.com.au)

Viognier is a rich and aromatic white.  It is the grape of Condrieu in the northern Rhone Valley and is grown throughout southern France.  Yalumba is a good South Australia producer.   RM

‘…bouquet is full of peach and apricot fruit and mixed spice which surge through the palate with great concentration…’– TS 954644

Australia – Cabernet

2006 Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

The Aussie wine critic James Halliday gives this a 95 which I find a bit ‘enthusiastic’.  The last wine I tasted that was rated a 95 by this critic (Ring Bolt) was in my view more like an 88 but still enjoyable and a good value at $20.  I have tasted several Pirramimma wines over the years and find them to be very good and good value in the price range.  When I think of a 95 point wine, I think of the great Bordeaux’s, Super Tuscans, and Burgundy; wines of great depth, concentration and ageing ability.  So probably not a ‘95’ in my book, but still very tasty.  RM

‘…elegance and intensity…medium bodied…great length…savoury overtones…black fruits…’– James Halliday (winecompanion.com.au) 730374

France – Bordeaux (Right Bank)

2005 Chateau Les Roches de Ferrand, AC Fronsac $24.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc
Gold Medal at Concours de Bordeaux 2008

Fronsac is one of the satellite appellations of the Right Bank.  It produces wines that drink well young and up to 7-10 years.  The Merlot with Cab Franc blend is typical of the area and should be medium bodied and smooth with good fruit.  It should be drinking great now; decant. RM

‘…deep ruby colour…cherries, sweet herbs, black plum, tobacco, pencil lead…medium bodied with good fruit…sweet oak…firm tannins…long spicy finish…’ (Vintages) 138669

France – Southern Rhone – Vacqueryras

2007 Pierre Amadieu la Grangeliere, Vacqueyras AC $21.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone blend
90 – Josh Raynolds (Int’l Wine Cellar)

Vacqueyras is an appellation in the Southern Rhone that is becoming more popular here.  Good examples could be described as baby Chateauneufs.  At $21 this could be a good value that drinks well now and over the next 2-3 years. RM

‘…deep red with a bright rim…wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and flowers…tightly focused red berry and floral pastille flavours…dusty tannins…’ – JR 076398

Italy – Super Tuscan        Collectible

2006 Sassicaia, DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, $184.95

Drink now – 2026
Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc
97 – Antonio Galloni (RP)
94 – James Suckling (WS)

Sassicaia is the original Super Tuscan and the only one with French grapes to have its own DOC designation (the IGT classification was created to recognize the quality of wines with non-indigenous grapes such as Sassicaia.  DOC and DOCG were reserved for wines made from indigenous grapes only).  Sassicaia is pricey but highly collectible, and good value compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux.  The last Sassicaia I tasted was the 2005 a year ago and it was surprisingly smooth and integrated for such a young great wine.  RM

‘…simply gorgeous, stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity, and tannin…layers of dark fruit…smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar…’ – AG 480533

Spain – Ribero del Duero

2006 Escondido Tempranillo, DO Ribera del Duero $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Tempranillo
89 – Jay Miller (RP)

Depth and concentration and smooth is what you get from Ribera del Duero.  At $15 that is a bargain.   RM

‘…deep ruby colour, mixed berry fruit and roasted coffee.  Dry, medium bodied, creamy textured, and well balanced…’ Vintages 132597

IN STORES ALREADY

Spain – Extreme value

2007 Bodegas Castano la Casona Monastrell, DO Yucla $8.95        Extreme Value

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
89 – (RP)
Beppi’s Pick of the Week (Globe and Mail)

Spain has long been a source of great value wines.  At $9 and the review from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (below), it should be hard to resist trying.  Also, here is a wine that is 100% Mourvèrdre on of the big 4 reds that go into Chateauneuf du Pape.  How often do you see 100% Mourvèdre? Not often.  If stores run out, the agent has advised that more is on the way. RM

‘…The 2007 La Casona Old-Vines is 100% Monastrell from the small but upcoming D.O. of Yecla. It was sourced from three dry-farmed vineyard sites ranging in age from 40-60 years. Purple-colored, it offers up a complex nose of violets, black cherry, and cassis that jumps from the glass. This leads to a medium-bodied, full-flavored wine with ample sweet fruit, good balance, and a fruit filled finish. Drink this tasty value over the next 2-3 years…’ RP 143743

France – Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf du Pape

2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape AC $59.95        Cellar Pick

Drink 2015-2025
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
94-96 Robert Parker (RP)
94 – James Molesworth (WS)

Despite the $60 price tag, this is a relative value.  Compared to Beaucastel which is now at about $90, this looks good.  There are only a few bottles left and the 2006 is under the same code so do a product search then call first.  2007 is an outstanding year for the Southern Rhone.  Here is a chance to put away a few quality bottles from this great region and vintage.  RM

‘…dense purple…camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits…’ RP 700922

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso    Ripasso of choice

2006 Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore DOC $19.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

This is a re-release that first came out in the spring.  This is the best Ripasso in the price range and is more of a ‘baby Amarone’ whereas typical Ripasso tends to be more like a beefed up Valpolicella (all from same grape blend).   This simply has more flavour and structure.  It is best to decant and give a bit of air to let it open up.  This will evolve (soften up) over the next year or two and drink nicely for 2-3 more.  Great with big flavoured food – lamb, olio alio, pasta with pesto.  If you want a more medium bodied, and easy drinking Ripasso, there are several at about $17 – Corte Majoli, Sa Solin, and others.  This was released Oct 24th.  Last week I was in one store that had sold 20 of the 30 cases it had ordered!  RM

‘…all the hallmarks of this popular style…rich floral and smoky aromas.  Dry, full…opulent dark fruit and smoky flavours…long plush finish…candidate for rich beef or lamb dishes…’ (Vintages) 023523

Cheers,   Ross

Oregon Pinot Noir dates back to the 1960s. Over the years, Oregon has developed a reputation for Pinot Noir, with some touting it as producing wines on par with Burgundy. Nature has helped out, giving Oregon a cool climate similar to that of Burgundy. Oregon has used some savvy self promotion by holding the annual ‘International Pinot Noir Celebration’, now in its 23rd year. Unfortunately, not too many Oregon Pinots seem to make it into our market. Vintages has brought in a few for this release. If you like Pinot, and Pinot from Burgundy, it is worth giving Oregon Pinot a try. The Willamette Valley is the top area for Pinot, but you may also find some good ones elsewhere. As with Burgundy, Oregon is susceptible to vintage variance. Delicate Pinot, the ‘Heartbreak grape’ is known for susceptibility to weather influences from vintage to vintage. 2006 is rated as a good vintage, with 2007 being weak.

Oregon Pinot

2006 Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $33.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Pinot Noir
92 Wine & Spirits
Light ruby colour, earthy nose with red berries and white/green peppercorns. Medium bodied and very smooth on the palate – comparable to a lighter Burgundy ¬Village¬ wine. Nice light acidity and very soft tannins on the finish. Delightful now or over next couple of years. 90 -RM
‘…fresh woodland berry scent…spice mix, sassafras, and pink pepper….ripe fruit pulled into line by fine acidity and the clean grip of fruit tannin. For roast chicken’ – Wine & Spirit 127043

Ontario – Chardonnay

2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay. VQA Niagara Peninsula, $65

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Chardonnay
Clos Jordanne has modeled its wine nomenclature somewhat after that of Burgundy: Village (Village Reserve), Single Vineyard (Clos), and Grand Cru (Grand Clos). Now in their only their 3rd vintage, they are recognized as producing Burgundy quality and styled Pinot and Chardonnay, and have raised the bar for other Ontario wineries. We tasted the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace Chardonnay at the recent Ontario Tasting:big Chards with nicely balanced oak. Both were very good. The Grand Clos is Jordannes’ take on a Grand Cru Chardonnay, expensive but tasty, barrel aged and good for a bit of bottle ageing. -RM
‘…Pale lemon gold colour…aromas of white flowers and apricots…Flavours of apricots and ripe citrus…hint of peach…silky textured..lively tangy acidity…’’ – Vintages 662601

California – Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Clos du Bois is a reliable mid range California producer. At $17, this Sauvignon Blanc could be a good value. -RM
‘…easy drinking…grapefruit, lemon-lime, and sweet herb aromas and flavours. Lighter bodied and quaffable…great match for pan-fried fish (shore lunch?) and steamed asparagus’ – Vintages 146258

California Fumé Blanc

2007 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley, $22.95

Drink now
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Robert Mondavi coined the term Fumé Blanc for his lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc from California. It is a bit fuller bodied and flavoured that its unoaked counterpart. -RM
‘…aromas of kiwi, dried grasses and hay, plus a nice layer of oak…refreshing core of acidity…plush mouthfeel…long crisp finish…grilled salmon… Vintages 221887

Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard

1500 ml $43.95
750 ml $20.05
Drink now -2013
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
90+ Gordon Stimmell, Toronto Star
90 Jay Miller (WA)
This is big and dark with a big ripe nose of dark berries, cassis, and blackberry, typical of Chilean Cabernet. Very smooth with good mouthfeel. Could age short term but good now. 88 – RM
‘Purple coloured…aromas of cedar, spice box, tobacco, black currant and blackberry. Layered but elegant… enough structure to age 2-3 years.’ JM (WA) 670539

Bordeaux – Left Bank 2005 Cru Bourgeois

2005 Chateau Clarke AC Listrac, $39 Value cellar pick

Drink now – 2020
Grapes: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
89 James Suckling (WS)
90-92 Robert Parker (WA)
In 2006 we had the 2001 Clarke at a backyard tasting and it did quite well – soft and smooth with good fruit. Now the 2005 is here and it is worth a try if you like Left Bank Bordeaux. Try a bottle now and put a few away (I have a few in the cellar now) if you like it. It will probably be at its best from about 2012 – 2018. -RM
‘Dark ruby in colour, with licorice, black coffee and ripe berry. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and mineral and berry flavours….lovely texture…bright acidity…’ – JS (WS) 503904

France – Vin de Pays – Viognier

2008 Beauvignac Viognier, AC Vins de Pay d’Oc, Sud de France, $14.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Viognier

Viognier is a wine of Southern France, from the Rhone right through the Languedoc. It is a rich and aromatic white. Pan seared scallops would be a good match. – RM

‘…pretty aromas…apricots, pear, peach and lime…pleasantly round and fruity. Incredible versatile, it can stand on its own or with…grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses. – Vintages 525295

Spain – Rioja

2004 LAN Reserva DOC Rioja, $23.95 Great value

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha.
90 – Tomas Matthews (WS)
#52 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines or 2008

The wines of Rioja are typically aged longer than other regions. You can get a good, smooth, medium bodied red that is ready to drink at a reasonable price. As a Reserva, this LAN gets 12 months in oak, then 2 years in bottle before release. Now at 5 years it should be drinking very nicely. – RM

‘A silky texture…flavours of black plum, violet, licorice and smoke…focused, balanced red. Good intensity yet remains vibrant and accessible. – TM (WS) 042929

Cheers, Ross

On Tuesday June 16, the Sip and Savour Ontario tasting was held at the Distillery.  About 30 Ontario wineries showcased their wines including many of this year’s award winners.  The evening is a fun night out for most and an opportunity to sample the very wide range of wines and styles available from Ontario producers.

Every few tables there would be food stations set up by local restaurants to showcase their culinary talents and present some Ontario food/wine pairings.  Many of the pairings were very good.  The food offerings were tiny but tasty.  One memorable pairing was a smoked Georgian Bay whitefish with a Gewurztraminer, mmmm.  Another was an upside down apricot cake with a Sparkling Vidal Icewine (any dessert with apricot, peaches, or mango is likely to be a good match for Vidal).

Here are some highlights and themes I discovered at the tasting:

Whites:     With limited time to cover the large number of wineries and wines, I focused mainly on the reds, and sweet wines.  I tried a few of the whites and listened to the comments of the friends I was with and others at the tasting.  Ontario continues to be good for white wine.  ‘Riesling’ was on the lips of many – both figuratively and literally.  The 2006 Le Clos Jordanne Reserve Chardonnay ($30) was very good.  Unfortunately Peninsula Ridge, which won the gold medal for Chardonnay, was not there.  The best Ontario Chardonnay I recall tasting was an earlier vintage from Peninsula Ridge.  Call Peninsula Ridge sales manager Jonathon Kuhling at 905-563-0900 x 22 or email at jkuhling@peninsularidge.com to see about ordering straight from the winery.

Pinot Noir:    The biggest change I have noticed since going to this tasting starting in 2006 is the improvement in the Pinot Noir.  First of all, I should state my point of reference for Pinot Noir: Burgundy.  In my view, Burgundy produces the best Pinot in the world and is the benchmark against which all others should be measured.  Unfortunately Burgundy is very difficult to navigate as the ownership is so fractionalized, terroir changes from village to village.  Pinot Noir is susceptible to vintage variation.  In Burgundy, terroir can be different in different parts of a single vineyard.  So, if we can find a few good Pinots closer to home, and support local wineries too, that is a good thing.

Many new world Pinots, including those from New Zealand, tend to be bigger and fuller than what I would expect from Pinot but lack the elegance, and smoothness of a very good Burgundy.  Many just come off as big and rough FrankenPinot (wines that have been manipulated to target some new world vision of what the universal palate demands – bad and boring).  Even last year and the year before, I found this with some of the Ontario Pinots, and Gamay Noir.

The good news is that this year the Pinots were much more varietally correct in character:  bright cherry and strawberry with earthy undertones, medium bodied, and smooth.  This was true even for Pinots under $20.  Perhaps we can thank Le Clos Jordanne who actually teamed up with the French to produce Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) here in Ontario that shows what one would expect from the French counterparts.  The 2004 Claystone Terrace showed signs of this character but was a bit thin (vines were very young).  It is now developing into a very good Pinot Noir.  Other winemakers seem to have followed suit and let the grape show what it can do.

If you have not tried an Ontario Pinot Noir recently, try one at the price level you are used to spending for other wines.

Sweet Wines:    Sweet wines remain the category that Ontario really excels at.  The hidden gems here are the Late Harvest, and a few Icewines.
Late Harvest wine is made by leaving the grapes on the vine past the regular harvest, but not as long as Icewine.  The grapes lose moisture and concentrate but to a lesser degree.  The result are wines with concentrated fruit that can jump out of the glass on the nose, but are not as sweet as Icewine and 1/3 or ¼ the price!  The big discovery here was the 2007 Caroline Cellars Momentum Series Late Harvest Vidal at $18.95 500ml. (See below for notes).

In the Icewine category there are many that are good but do come across as overly sweet or syrupy.  A really great Icewine has an abundance of fruit flavour balanced with acidity that creates intense aromas and flavour without tasting overly sweet.  Royal de Maria, the Icewine specialist www.royaldemaria.com , does this the best.  Others hit the mark from time to time.  The 2007 Riverview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine was one such wine (see below for notes).  It won the gold medal, deservedly.  Dan Ackroyd had a very good Gewurztraminer Icewine but at $65 for 200ml it was too pricey for what it was.

Wines of Note:

2007 Black Prince Winery Cabernet Franc, Prince Edward County, $15.75

www.blackprincewinery.com Good Value
Soft and good with dark berry fruit.  Easy drinking.  Would pair well with a chocolate dessert as well as usual Cab Franc pairings.

2006 Caroline Cellars Winery Baco Noir, Niagara on the Lake, $10.20

Silver Medal www.carolinecellars.com Excellent Value Direct order only
Deep dark colour, smooth and medium bodied – good easy drinker.

2006 Caroline Cellars Winery Momentum Series Late Harvest Vidal, $18 500ml

www.carolinecellars.com Best Value
Excellent for $18.  Peach and apricot aromas jump out of the glass.  People who didn’t like Icewine liked this wine.  Friends who had just tried the Ackroyd Gewürztraminer Icewine which, was no doubt a great wine, tried this Late Harvest.  They were amazed.  This won out though for value for the money.  Pair with apple pie, or crisp, peach cobbler, or apple/mango crisp with some ginger, lemon, coconut, mmmm.

2007 Inniskillin Wines Sparkling Vidal Icewine, Niagara on the Lake, $59.75

www.inniskillin.com Good Value
Had this with the upside down apricot cake.  It was a great match.  The sparkling Vidal was a nice change.  It is pricey, but not compared to a good Vidal Icewine.

2008 Jackson Triggs Estate Winery Proprietors Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, $13.95

Niagara on the Lake         Excellent Value
www.jacksontriggswinery.com
This was one of the few whites I tried and I was glad that I did.  This was a very aromatic Sauvignon Blanc with peach notes on the nose, smooth on the palate, balanced with good acidity.

2007 Mike Weir Cabernet Merlot, Niagara Peninsula, $18.95

Niagara on the Lake         Good Value
www.mikeweirwine.com
Very good with nice tannic grip.  Flavours of dark berries.  Lived up to expectation after very good 2006.

2009 Pelee Island Winery Pinot Noir Reserve, $14.95

Bronze Medal         Good Value
www.peleeisland.com
Good, light and smooth.  Cherries on the nose.

2009 Pelee Island Winery Monarch Red, $14.95

Silver Medal         Excellent Value
www.peleeisland.com
Marchel Foch, Baco Noir, and Zweigelt…what a combo!  This doesn’t have the tannic structure to age, but for $10 this is a great value and one that should be tried.  Look for the big Monarch butterfly on the label and try some.  Should be a great BBQ wine.

2007 Riverview Cellars Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine, Niagara, $59.95

Gold Medal         Excellent Value    Special order from winery (min 3 bottles)
www.riverviewcellars.com
This Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine stood out from the rest.  The big strawberry nose was followed by strawberry and honey on the palate.  Nice big bright fruit without tasting too sweet.  Pair with cranberry biscotti, or chocolate and berry desserts.  This came at the end of the evening and was a great way to finish. winery@riverviewcellars.com  to order.  This drinks great now and will probably be at its best over the next 3-4 years.  Riverview Cellars is owned by Sam Pillitteri (brother of Gary Pillitteri of Pillitteri Estates Winery) and his wife Lina.   .  As Pillitteri has produced some very good Vidal Icewine and Cab Franc Late Harvest, it is not surprising that Riverview is excelling at the production of dessert wines.  Good dessert wines must run in this family!

Cheers,   Ross

The Great

(good just doesn’t cut it)

• The weather – Saturday was great, wish I could have made it that day too – Sunday the rain held off, and the sky was clear – good view of Toronto from Thirty Bench.
• The Wine – Lovely whites, roses, and even reds that impressed me.
  • Peninsula Ridge – I enjoyed and bought the 2006 McNally Vineyards Syrah Rose, and 2007 Wismer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc(very smooth, nice citrus flavors), tried the Chardonnay but wasn’t quite buttery enough for my tastes.
  • Thirty Bench – Walked out of there with 2007 Thirty Bench Red, and 2008 Riesling(really could see myself drinking this one weekly), and many reasons to go back.
  • Angel’s Gate – I probably would have bought their Riesling if I hadn’t discovered the one at Thirty, and there were too many wines, and too little time, that I didn’t want to rush through them, will have to return to this one later this summer.
• The Food – Great selection, very tasty, would have loved to have a little from each winery – perhaps a day tasters pass next year.
• The Music – Nice variety
• The Crowds – every winery I went to, people were asking about the graze the bench event, seems like it was a success
• The Audis – R8 and A5…

The Bad

• The hours – it was so much fun, wish it would have started earlier, and ended later.. only had time to enjoy 3 wineries – was hoping to do at least five and ideally all 8. And with some of the wineries shutting down the food/music at 4, left me with no choice other then to go to Copcabana, near the falls.
• The lack of kid friendly food, saw quite a few children running around, and wasted a good half hour making a wendy’s run for some chicken nuggets, would have been nice to have some hotdogs, or corn on the cob, or chicken and fruit…
• Probably would have been a good idea to receive a tasting sheet when you received your glass at the start of the day, to see what each winery was offering and base your day off the type of wines you mind find interesting.

The Ugly

• Wineries charging 8$/glass – 5$ would have been more reasonable.
  You could go inside and taste for free or pretty close to it…
  Or you could buy a glass for 10$ which included a Riedel glass.
  Didn’t seem to make any sense to pay 8$ for just the wine.
  The way we go through wine glasses – it made more sense to just get a new Riedel glass each time, and start a collection.

All in all, looking forward to next year.

Thanks Beamsville!

Ontario’s cool climate makes it ideal for producing good white wine.  I don’t buy too many whites but enjoy trying them at tastings from time to time.  Over the last few years I have been able to attend a couple of Ontario Wine Awards tastings, and private tastings from Peninsula Ridge, Mike Weir, and others.  For my palate, the varieties that stand out are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (including Fume Blanc), and Pinot Gris/Grigio.  Riesling and Gewürztraminer do well and may suit your palate.

Most of the Ontario whites are under, or near the $20 mark.  My recommendation is to pick a variety you like (or try a new variety) and see what you like.  One distinction I have found about Ontario is that winemakers are still in the process of discovering which varieties work the best for their terroir, and they are quite innovative.  The result is a wide range of styles within any given varietal.  It may take trying a few but the good news is that you should be able to find something that fits your palate and is grown close to home.

This is an opportunity to buy local, and enjoy a good quality product in the process, something that is worthwhile in our current economic climate.  So do your bit for Ontario and enjoy…

Sparkling

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve Brut. AC Burgundy, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté
This Burgundian sparkling gives some Champagne taste to fit a Ginger Ale budget.
‘yellow fruit aromas, fine mousse, fresh well balanced palate…match for trout meunière, shucked oysters, or cheeses like brie or gouda’ Vintages 641423 (Half bottle $11.95)

Bestheim Brut Rosé  Crémant D’Alsace, AC Alcase, $19.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir
$20 dollar sparkling rose made by the traditional method.  The Alsace is the other regional producer of Crémant.
‘…bright strawberry, raspberry…layers of red berries’ Vintages 106740

California – Merlot

2005 Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot, Napa Valley, $49.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Merlot, with small amounts of Cabernet
Stag’s leap is an iconic Napa winery.  For fans of California wine, this is a must try.
‘…nearly two years in French oak (50% new)…aromas of black cherry, bramble fruit with cedar and fennel…good tannin structure…pair with gourmet 3 cheese macaroni or spiced duck breast…’ Vintages 655399

Australia – Grenache

2006 D’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache, McLaren Vale SA, $21.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Grenache
90 Josh Raynolds – Intl Wine Cellar
Grenache is one of the main grapes of the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf) and is found from there over to Spain where as Garnacha it is a key grape of Rioja.  It usually gives good berry flavour with a bit of spice to a wine and is soft and smooth.  Not big in terms of tannins, it is often blended with other varieties (old world and new).  Here is a chance to try an Aussie Grenache from a good region, on its own.  Big fruit, soft and easy drinking.
‘…raspberry, cherry, and blackberry.  Smooth and seemless with deeply concentrated focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins…’ JR 713040

Australia – CSM (not to be confused with GSM)

Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot, Barossa SA, $37.95

Drink 2011 – 2021
Grapes: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Shiraz, 16% Merlot
91 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Enthusiast
Elderton is one of Australia’s better producers.  Tastings of earlier CSM from Elderton were terrific (and still in my cellar).  I am a fan of unconventional blends using Cab.  Super Tuscans and similar styled blends from Umbria or Piedmont are great to.  Each region gives its own character to the blend with a backbone of Cabernet coming through.  This is a great Aussie combination in this vein.
‘…amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla,…tight core of mixed berry fruit and long finish…’ JC (WE) 976423

Australia – Shiraz – Margaret River

2006 Stella Bella Shiraz, Margaret River WA, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Shiraz
The Margaret River is in Western Australia.  I had the 2005 Stella Bella and found it to be a good value at this price level.  Big fruit and smooth.  This was in the Feb 28 release but there is still a lot in stores.
‘…Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. Score – 4 Stars (out of 5). (Winestate, May/June 2008) ’ 048553

Beaujolais – Morgon

2007 Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon AC, $20.95

Drink now – 2011
Grapes: Gamay
Morgon is one of the better sites in Burgundy, producing fuller than average Gamay.  I recently enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Beaujolais Village (Louis Jadot $18) which is a blend of grapes from around Beaujolais.  It was indicative of a good vintage for Beaujolais.  This Morgon looks like a village wine (grapes from around this particular village) and as such is a step up from the classification of Beaujolais Village.  It should be smooth, medium bodied, with cherry notes.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it delivers.  Best at 3-4 years. 112557

Italy – Piedmont – Dolcetto

2007 Luigi Tacchino Dolcetto D’Ovada DOC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a grape with good fruit and low acid.  That makes for a great drinking young wine that is smooth with big fruit flavor.
‘…bright ruby colour, intense cherry, strawberry and hints of poached plum on nose…medium bodied…enjoy tonight with carpaccio’ Vintages 101279

Veneto – 11 year old Amarone

1998 Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva DOC, $77.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Blend
Good Amarone seems to really hit its stride at about 10 years.  This one should be drinking superbly now, and over the next couple or three years.  If you don’t have the cellar or time to store Amarone, the cellaring has been done for you on this one.  Match with big full flavored Italian dishes.  My favorite match for Amarone is Aglio e Olio Anchovie Pepperincino.  Recently, some good friends and I enjoyed a 1998 Amarone along with Aglio e Olio and it was a memorable dinner.
‘…single vineyard Amarone Riserva…fruit is hand selected…rich and round…complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed fruit flavours and aromas…’ Vintages 101634

B.C.  St. Emilion styled Bordeaux blend

2005 OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN,VQA Okanagan Valley, $44.95

Drink 2012 – 2015
Grapes: 68% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 21%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Malbec 2%
This is a joint effort between the Canadians and Ch Gruaud Larose of Bordeaux (St. Julien).  It seems to get consistently great reviews from Canadian critics (any joint venture with the French seems to do so).  I had some of the 2004 and found it flat and disappointing although this may have been due to a poor vintage (in BC 2004).  So… if you like Right Bank blends (Merlot based) and wines from BC, this one gets 5 of 5 starts from Tony Aspler who is well respected here in Toronto.  Try a bottle and go back for more if it stands up to the 5 star rating.  626325

France – Bordeaux

2000 Chateau Bourdrieu La Valada, AC Fronsac, $34.95

Drink now
Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
Great Vintage
No big score here, but this could be a great wine for the money anyway (from a great vintage).  Fronsac is near St. Émilion and Pomerol.  The 70/30 Merlot/Cab Franc blend, typical of Fronsac, delivers some of the character of the more famous Right Bank appellations at a fraction of the cost.  These wines are usually at their best over the first 5-10 years.
‘…dry, full bodied…plum and black current…round smooth texture…tannins are mellowing’ Vintages 092551

2005 Chateau Haut-Bernat, AC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, $36.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Merlot (mainly)
Great Vintage
The buzz about this wine from the Right Bank satellite commune of Puisseguin-St. Émilion is that for the last several years improvements have been guided by uber wine consultant Michel Rolland.  This may be good or bad depending on which side of the Mondo Vino debate you find yourself (Critics suggest that Rolland’s prolific influence is driving wines to all taste the same.  Fans suggest that he gets the best from a vineyard.)  Try a bottle and decide for yourself.
‘…Gold Medal at Paris…bright blackberry fruit…vanilla oak…medium frame’ Vintages 091298

Italy –Veneto

2005 Quintarelli Primofiore IGT Veneto, $64.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara
No 90 pt score here, just a legendary producer, a good vintage and a classic Valpolicella/Amarone blend.  The addition of some Amarone adds complexity.  No need to cellar this as it is designed to drink young.
‘…complex rich flavours of cherry, olives, exotic spices and oak’ Vintages 020897

Italy –Piedmont

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco, DOC Langhe, $63.95 750 ml, $32.95 375 ml

Drink now – 2016
Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
No 90 pt score here as well, just another legendary producer, a good vintage and an innovative blend from Piedmont.  Gaja is one of the top producers in the Langhe (region surrounding Barolo) and one of the great innovators.  This one sounds like a Piedmont twist on a Super Tuscan theme with Nebbiolo replacing the usual Sangiovese.
‘…spectacular…elegant, balanced, ageworthy… (5-7 years)’ Vintages 091843

Cheers,   Ross