Canadian Wino(s)

True to tradition Vintages has come up with a plethora of budget friendly wines for January, following the fall parade of high end offerings and the Christmas season.

Aussie – D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (Red and White)

D’Arenberg is a good South Australia producer.  Over the holidays I was fortunate to enjoy their 2003 and 2004 Dead Arm Shiraz with friends.  The 2003 Dead Arm was big, fruity, spicy, full bodied, concentrated and complex, just coming into maturity.  The 2004 was not as big a wine as the 2003 and was more elegant in comparison.  The 2004 opened up nicely after about 1 ½ hours.  It seems the Dead Arms start to drink nicely after about 5-6 years.  The 03 had developed nicely since we first tasted it in 2006.

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump (GSM), Adelaide – South Australia $14.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre           EXCELLENT VALUE
90 – Harvey Steiman (WS)

The 2006 was very good, the 2007 not quite as.  The 2008 gets a 90 from Wine Spectator, a reliable source.  GSM blends are based on the core grapes of the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend and make a good alternative to pure Shiraz/Syrah.  Try a bottle if you like Shiraz or Shiraz based blends.  Try one and if you like it put a few away for bbq season. RM

‘Ripe and open textured…cherry, blackberry and raspberry…’– HS (WS) 606236

2008 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Lightly Wooded Chardonnay, Adelaide SA $14.95

Drink now
Grapes: Chardonnay
3 ½ out of 5 – Rod Phillips

I haven’t tasted this one, but based on my experience with other D’Arenberg products, this is definitely worth a try for fans of Chardonnay that is lightly oaked.  RM

‘…lightly wooded chardonnay with a very solid character…well-defined flavours, decent complexity, and good balance’– www.rodphillipsonwine.com   147520

France – GSM – Cotes du Rhone

2008 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages, $15.00

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
Gold Medal at 2009 Concours des Grands Vin de France in Macon

The Rhone Valley is the home of Syrah and Syrah blends.  This is the French, northern climate, version of what you get with the Aussie Stump Jump.  Why not try a bottle of each and see which style you prefer.  Typically the hotter climate Aussie wine will be more fruit forward while the cooler climate French equivalent may be more balanced overall with darker fruit flavours and aromas such as tar/tobacco/leather.  RM

‘…nose of wild berries, black fruit, pepper, and hint of tar…medium bodied…juicy black fruit…hints of leather and pepper…’– Vintages 998716

Mexico –Petite Sirah

2007 L. A. Cetto Petite Sirah, Guadalupe Valley, Baja California, $11.95

Drink now
Grapes: Petite Syrah
89 Natalie McLean

Earlier vintages of this have been medium to full bodied, with big plumy fruit, with hints of smoke or spice but not as jammy as some Shiraz.  Great value for the price.  RM

‘…Juicy, round and ripe…black plums, black raspberry and vanilla smoke.  Food matches: spicy black bean dishes, steak and cheese enchiladas.’– www.nataliemclean.com  983742

France – Burgundy

2007 Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes AC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Bourgogne denotes Pinot Noir made from grapes sourced from around Burgundy (as opposed to a specific village).  It is the entry level wine for Burgundy.  2007 is a lighter ‘drinking’ vintage, as opposed to a cellaring vintage like 2005, 2002 or 2003.  Bichot is a good negociant (one who buys grapes and makes wine).  I had their 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages which was an excellent value.  Expect a light to medium bodied pinot with some good character and value for the money.  RM

‘…aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant and woodland berries.  Dry, medium bodied, with darker fruit flavours…balanced acidity, some mild tannic grip’– Vintages 043331

Ontario – Cab Franc

2007 Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2007, $18.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc shows up typically in Bordeaux blends (small percentages on the Left Bank, and up to 25-30% on the Right Bank).  It is a difficult variety to show well on its own.  Occasionally a good Cab Franc comes out of Niagara.  This one hails from Niagara College’s Teaching Winery.  The College Winery makes some very good wines.  The Late Harvest Cab Franc is terrific and rivals Pillitteri’s.  Over Christmas I enjoyed a barrel fermented Chardonnay (a wine that Prince Charles enjoyed on his last visit).  The 2006 Cab Franc was good for an Ontario wine for the price.  2007 is a great vintage for Niagara.  Looking for something different in a red?  Try this and support our local industry and future winemakers as well.  RM

‘Deep ruby colour…ripe black cherry, raspberry, cedar…dry, medium bodied…soft tannins and moderate acidity…pair with herb crusted veal chops or medium rare roast beef w rosemary.’– Vintages 155671

California – Pinot Noir

2006 Loredena Pinot Noir, Monterey, $18.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Pinot Noir

Ocean breezes that flow up the Salinas Valley provide a cooling effect that is favorable to Pinot Noir.  This is an effect that shows up in a few places in the West Coast of the USA, to the benefit of the grapes.  RM

‘…cherry, cedar, plum and earth.  A fine choice for grilled duck breast or veal tenderloin’ – Vintages 057620

Italy – Piedmont – Barbaresco        Cellar Pick

2005 Sori’ Paitin Barbaresco DOCG, $39.95

Drink 2012 – 2020
Grapes: Nebbiolo
93 James Suckling (WS)
93 Antonio Galloni (RP)

Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Barolo fame.  It is generally grown at lower elevations than Barolo with the wine being softer, and more elegant than Barolo with softer tannins.  While some Barbaresco can be more approachable at a younger bottle age, some can age nicely.  RM

‘…lovely overall balance…well integrated tannins…superb purity…Today the wine is bursting with primary fruit and needs a at least a few years to develop its tertiary aromas and flavours…AG (erobertparker.com) 106591

Italy – Veneto – Ripasso

2005 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, $16.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Valpolicella Blend
4/5 Vic Harradine (Winecurrent.com)

Ripasso: Pass Valpolicella over the left over must from the making of Amarone.  The result is a beefed up Valpolicella that ranges from a smooth medium-full bodied quaffer to a ‘baby Amarone’.  Ripasso generally pairs well with big flavoured Italian dishes.    RM

‘Rich, spicy, earthy on the nose…boysenberry and cassis…nuances of bacon, savoury notes…black licorice and tar….medium to full bodied…well balanced…’ VH (WC) 999946

Aussie – Shiraz

2007 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz, Barossa South Australia, $27.95

Drink now – 2017
Grapes: Shiraz
91 Harvey Steiman (WS)

This is from the Dec 5 release however; there are lots of bottles still available.  The Gold Label Shiraz has been an outstanding value compared to other Aussie Shiraz in previous vintages.  Decant for an hour or more, or cellar 2-5 years for best results.    RM

‘Firm and chewy…smoky, wood accented blackberry and currant…polished finish…’ HS (WS) 590273

Cheers,   Ross

The Rhone Valley is divided into North and South, with Syrah in the North, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the South. Exceptions are Condrieu in the North which is known for its high end Viognier, and Tavel in the South which is known for Rosé.  Watch for names of the various appellations on bottles, as each appellation usually has its own distinct style.

Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of up to 13 varieties, including some whites such as Viognier.  The main grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.  The big 3 grapes show up in regional blends such as those of Vacqueyras and throughout southern France.  In the new world, especially Australia, one sees GSM on the label.  Wines based on this type of blend can range from well balanced medium bodied ‘drink and enjoy now’ wines to full bodied wines capable of decades of cellaring.  Price is often a good general indication of which category a wine falls into.

Southern Rhone – Chateauneuf

2007 Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf du Pape AC, $35.95    Great value

Drink now -2017
Grapes: 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
94 – Robert Parker (WA)
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
The 2007 vintage is an exceptional for the Southern Rhone.  Delas is a good quality producer of wines from the Northern as well as Southern Rhone.  With the combination of producer and vintage it is no surprise that this wine scores well.  Drink it now (decant) or cellar to drink over the next several years.  At the price point this should be great value either way.-RM
‘…deep ruby/purple colour…gorgeous nose of black fruits, spring flowers, licorice, incense….dense, full bodied….chewy…’ – RP (WA) 074195

Southern Rhone – Vacqueyras

2005 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras AC, $24.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Southern Rhone Blend
91-93 – Robert Parker (WA)
Wines from Vacqueyras have been making more frequent appearances at Vintages over the last year or so.  Some have been excellent values, especially at the $20-25 level.  Here is one from the great 20-05 vintage that gets a good rating from Parker.  Although it may have the structure to age for a few years, it should be very enjoyable now with some decanter time.  If you do have room in your cellar it would be interesting to see how this wine is in a few years.-RM
‘…dense ruby/purple…full bodied…terrific ripeness…huge blackberry and cherry liqueur…licorice, garrique…espresso…’ – RP (WA) 130013

Tavel – Rosé

2008 Cuvee Tableau Tavel AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre + (White) Clairette, Bourboulenc; Picpoul
There are rosé wines from just about everywhere nowadays.  Why not try one from the benchmark appellation for rosé.  This rosé is made with a real Chateauneuf blend. -RM
‘…Electric pink colour…aromas of strawberry/rhubarb, orange peel, citrus mineral and pear drops…dry….good crisp acidity…try with pan fried fresh water fish… – Vintages 117309

Northern Rhone – Syrah

2005 Caves Dumazet Cuvee Charlemagne Cornas AC, $44.95     Cellar Pick

Drink now – 2018
Grapes: Syrah
91 – James Molesworth (WS)
Cornas is known for big inky dark full bodied Syrah capable of substantial cellaring.  Here is one from the great 2005 vintage.  Give it considerable decant time if opening now (1-2 hours).  This should be at its best at about 8-10 years of ageing. -RM
‘Mouthfilling with solid grip…olive, aged tobacco, macerated black cherry and spice flavors…solid version of the traditional style…’ JM (WS) 130054

2006 Ferraton Pere et Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage AC, $21.95

Drink now -2012
Grapes: Syrah
91 James Molesworth (WS)
Crozes-Hermitage surrounds the more prestigious appellation of Hermitage.  You get some of the character at often a much better price.  This Syrah should be a great value from a good year that will drink well now and over the next year or so. RM
‘…juicy, structured style…iron, lavender…black cherry and currant fruit…herb note marks the finish’ JM (WS) 127712

California – Zin

2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $28.95

Drink now – 2012
Grapes: Zinfandel
93 Tim Smart (WS)    #10 on Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2008
If you like Zinfandel or would like to try one here is a chance to do so and enjoy a wine from the top 10 on the Spectators 2008 100 list for under $30.  -RM
‘…seductive and vigorous…smoky black cherry and blueberry aromas…wild berry, sage and cracked pepper…’ – Vintages 942151

France –Bordeaux

2005 Chateau St. Georges, AC St-George-St-Emilion, $34.95

Drink now – 2013
Grapes: Right Bank blend

This is from a Right Bank satellite appellation (surrounding St. Émilion and Pomerol).  This is of the variety that tends to drink well over the first 10 years.  Expect a medium to full bodied wine with lots of smooth fruit up front. – RM

‘…aromas such as cherry and plum with fine tannins…’ – Vintages 125666

Italy – Piedmont

2007 Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba DOC, $16.95

Drink now
Grapes: Dolcetto
.
Dolcetto is a variety grown in Piedmont that is great for drinking young.  It is medium bodied, smooth, with good fruit.  RM

‘…raspberry and citrus aromas and flavours…medium bodied and freshly fruity…excellent aperitif red or enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or poached salmon…’ – Vintages 117176

Piedmont – Barolo Bargain

2004 Patrizi Barolo 2004 DOCG, $29.95        Exceptional value

Drink now
Grapes: Nebbiolo
.
The Patrizi is a modern styled early drinking Barolo that is a great value at the price.  The last time I saw this Barolo was the 2000 vintage (in 2004).  Decant it and let it open up.  This wine should be full flavoured and smooth.  This is a great Barolo to drink while waiting for some of the more expensive 2004s (e.g. Pio Cesare, Paolo Conterno, etc.) to age.  RM

‘…rich yet very crisp Nebbiolo…rose, plum, leather and a hint of barnyard……’ – Vintages 653527

Cheers,   Ross

Tuscany:  Chianti, Brunello; Super Tuscans.  They are all good but vary in style and character due to location and variety.  Sangiovese is the dominant indigenous grapes, showing up as Chianti, Brunello (clone), and blended with other indigenous grapes (Canaiolo, Alicante…) or non indigenous grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Super Tuscans.

Super Tuscans (from Bolgheri and Maremma generally) can be:
Blends which generally have Cab, Merlot or both, plus Sangiovese and others (e.g. Ornellaia, Solaia, Tignanello, Saffredi etc.)
Straight Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Sassicaia) or
Straight Merlot (e.g. Masseto).

Quality indigenous grapes get the DOCG designation while the non indigenous garner the IGT designation.  Both DOCG and IGT indicate quality; IGT was introduced to accommodate the non indigenous Super Tuscans that did not fit the local grape requirements for DOCG status.

What this all means is that there are lots to choose from.  Chianti and Brunello reflect more traditional Tuscan wines while the Super Tuscans have become sought after collectibles designed to compete with the best of Bordeaux.

Super Tuscan

2004 Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004 IGT Maremma, $114.95 – Collectible

Best from 2012 – 2022
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante
97 James Suckling (WS)
95 WA
95 Wine Enthusiast
This Super Tuscan from Maremma has been scoring in the 90s since the mid 1990s but really hit the mark in 2004 getting 97 from the Spectator and 95 from the Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.  2004 was a good year for Super Tuscans.  With a production of only 1750 cases (6 packs) this all adds up to a very collectible wine.  Expect a full bodied but balanced and smooth wine.  There are still a few cases and bottles in stores.  Putting some down for 5-10 years should be rewarded nicely.
‘…very ripe nose with rose, berry and hints of meat.  Full bodied and powerful, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish.  Massive yet balanced….’ – JS (WS) 074435

Chianti

2005 Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, $24.95

Best from 2010 – 2015
Grapes: Sangiovese
4/5 Decanter
Chianti is the wine that is known to stand up to tomato sauce due to its acidity.  It is a great wine to go with food.  In fact, it is probably best with food.  If opening now, decant.
‘Complex and intriguing: cherry, tobacco, and oak/vanilla scents with flavours integrating nicely’ – Decanter 943613

Veneto

2006 Cormi Merlot/Corvina IGT, Veneto, $19.95

Drink now -2010
Grapes: Merlot, Corvina
Corvina is one of the main grapes of Veneto that is blended into Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto.  It typically has low tannin, and high acidity.  I recently had a straight Corvina which showed the typical cherry flavours of Veneto reds with some bitter cherry.  The Cormi Merlot/Corvina was smooth and easy drinking with good bright fruit, and good with food; a step up from $15 quaffers.
‘…typical floral (honeysuckle) and ripe peach aromas…dry medium full body with juicy fruit flavours…amazing value…’ Vintages 734533

2006 Monte del Fra Corvina, DOC Garda, $15.95

Drink now – 2010
Grapes: Corvina
If you like Valpolicella or Amarone and have not tried Corvina on its own, pick up a bottle.  It is good to try less common single varietals so that you can get an idea of what they add to blends.  Sometimes, as with Petit Verdot, one can see why the grape is generally better off in a blend but also gain an appreciation for what characteristic it adds to the blend.  This makes picking blends that you like easier.  Garda, near Lake Garda, is where one of my favorite Veneto producers, Monte Zovo.
‘…aromas and flavours are dominated by sour cherry, citrus and green plum.  Fresh and enticing.  Serve with grilled steaks or roast beef’ Vintages 116996

California Cab

2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $89.95

Drink 2010 -2015
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon
92 – James Laube (WS)
Looking for a big California Cabernet?  Here it is.  Decant though if drinking now and give it a good hour.
‘Full blown, ripe and rich, with intense and sharply focused dried currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that’s still fairly tannic at this stage…’ JL (WS) 222877

2005 Dominus Estate Napanook, Napa Valley, $53.95

Drink now – 2015
Grapes: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
91 Robert Parker (WA)
This blend is from a big name and old established estate that predates Dominus.  It’s a bit easier on the pocket book than the Caymus.  I like the addition of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.  The Cab Franc adds complexity while the Petit Verdot intensifies the fruit.  If only picking one from California this time, I’d pick this one.
‘…dark ruby purple-hued…big, spicy tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather…attractive fruit…soft round full bodied mouthfeel…beautiful complexity as well as balance…’ RP (WA) 063065

2005 Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma County, $25.95 Good Value

Drink now
Grapes: Merlot plus small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Syrah, and Cab Franc
Sebastiani is a reliable producer of good wines at this price level, hence good value.
‘Deep garnet hue.  Ripe plum and cherry aromas…supple ripe cherry fruit with a note of bakers chocolate…’ The Wine News 219162

Beaujolais

2006 Domaine de Penlois Juliénas AC, $18.95

Drink now
Grapes: Gamay
The AC of Juliénas is said to get its name from Julius Caesar.  A bit lighter than Moulin-a-Vent, this Gamay should be light, bright, and smooth with earthy cherry flavours.  Try a bottle and go back for more if you like it.  Match with chicken, veal, or pork tenderloin. 112532

Piedmont – Barolo

2004 Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo DOCG, $49.95

Drink now – 2014
Grapes: Nebbiolo
This is a modern styled Barolo that should be drinking nicely now.  Try a bottle before loading up to see if the value is there at $50, and decant an hour or more it to give it some air.  I always enjoy Barolo and pesto.  Truffle risotto is another good match.
‘…ripe berry fruit and truffle aromas…dry and fruity…gentle caressing tannins…match, after decanting, to grilled game bird with truffle or wild mushroom risotto…’ – Vintages 112581

Cheers,   Ross